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Rubber
Latex - Outer Skin
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 Hard Plastic Wings ( Outer Shell ) |
The rubber latex is in a thick liquid form and was real easy to work with. When still sticky, it was very easy to clean up with plain water. For my first attempts, I used my originally purchased 16 ounce size and then stepped up to the gallon size. I cracked open the pinted-sized plastic container and poured some rubber latex into the mold. Making several strokes, I spread the latex around with the paint brush. The label on the jar says to use about three coats and to allow drying between each. I did this and placed the gauze ( scrim material ) between the 2nd and 3rd layers. I gave each layer about 30 minutes to dry and they were still a bit tacky when I applied the next layer. I waited 24 hours after applying the scrim layer to ensure that all the latex was dry. I first experimented by using 5 different molds in various sizes and shapes. I found that the flatter molds were easier to work with in regards to adding the scrim. I also found that the scrim greatly strengthened the rubber latex and more importantly, greatly improved the ease of removal of the dried rubber latex from its mold. If you're looking at learning to build your own low cost molds, then I would suggest you take a look at Secrets of Building a Plastic Vacuum Forming Machine. During the application I tried sloshing on a thick coat of latex, as well as skimping with a light coat. Slosh on the first coat and skimp on the others. A thin first coat will peel away like sun-burnt skin when you apply the second coat. |
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 Hard Plastic Wings ( Inner Shell ) Latex with scrim on left wing |
I did NOT use a release agent between the rubber latex and mold. It simply peeled off. You do have to be careful around the edges to not tear the rubber latex. Sprinkle a bit of talcum powder onto the latex prior to peeling away. Also sprinkle a bit onto the face of the freshly peeled skin. This is really important as it will help to keep the latex from sticking on itself like a big wad of Saran Wrap. Big thanks to the Big Kahuna at Magic Marmot Studios for the tip! |
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 Latex Skin with excessive scrim |
I found that the latex cleaned up fairly easy. I would drop the paint brush into plain water between molds, flick away the excess water, and then brush the water off on a dry surface. The brush did wind up clumping with small particles but I found that it did not make much of a difference in brushing more latex. The product's scent is strong and I did most of my work outdoors in my backyard as it allowed me to keep an eye on my sprogs. |
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  From left to right: Hard Plastic, Great Stuff, Latex with Scrim |
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This area to be edited soon: Blah, Blah. The Foam Book: An Easy Guide to Building Polyfoam Puppets The Trick-or-Treaters didn't fear my ghost, so I think I'll swap out the Wig Head for something a little more gruesome - like a fleshy skull. The Prop Builder's Molding & Casting Handbook The Prop Builder's Mask-Making Handbook And, to add a disorienting effect - a strobe light, too! |
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The
results of skull below made it on to another prop as a Fog
Head
 From left to right: Hard Plastic Chip Dip Tray [ mold ], Great Stuff, Latex with Scrim |
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Other
Halloween Stuff to Look At:
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Rubber
Latex
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Thank
you for visiting!
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